The 3 Submission Types
When you submit a signed card to PSA, you must check one of three boxes:
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1. Dual Service (Card + Auto):
You get two grades. E.g., "Card: 8, Auto: 10". Risky if the card is in bad shape.
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2. Card Grade Only (Authenticated Auto):
The label says "Trading Card" with a numerical grade. The auto is just marked "Authentic".
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3. Auto Grade Only (Blue Label):
The classic "Trading Card" blue flip. The card condition is ignored. Only the signature is graded.
The "Streak" Rule
What makes an Auto a 10? The ink must be bold, continuous, and on the card.
If the pen lifted for a micro-second (streaking), it's a 9. If the signature runs off the edge of the sticker or card (cut off), it's an 8. Collectors hate Auto 9s. An Auto 9 often sells for less than an Authenticated (No Grade) Auto.
Strategy: When to use "Blue Flip" (Auto Only)
If you have a vintage 1952 Mantle signed in a ballpoint pen, and the card is beat up (creases, rounded corners), do not grade the card.
A "PSA 1" card grade looks ugly. Instead, submit "Auto Grade Only". You get a beautiful slab that certifies the signature is real and perfect (Auto 10), without highlighting the fact that the card itself is damaged.
The "Dna" Service
PSA/DNA is for "After-Market" autographs (signed in person at a game). PSA "Card Grading" is for "Factory" autographs (pulled from a pack).
Do not confuse them. Sending a Factory Auto to PSA/DNA is a waste of money.
Final Verdict
If the card is Mint, do Dual Service. If the card is damaged, do Auto Only. If the signature is streaky, do "Authentic Only" (No Grade).